Make a Miintainable diy double glazes window
Double-glazed windows are usually made of pre-fabricated glass panels. Although it is a good design to reduce the cost and complexity of construction, there are drawbacks. For example, if a double-glazed window is broken, replacing it can be very difficult and costly due to custom sizes, discontinued models, and companies going out of business. Most double-glazed windows are only expected for the last 10 years in moderate climates, and where the temperature is at extremes due to the weather, which is reason enough to be able to maintain a window.
The design shown below is a true DIY double-glazed window. It can be created and maintained by a person of minor skill; And at the least cost. If someone breaks the glass, it can be replaced with a readily available glass sheet from a home-supply store. If it starts collecting moisture, the seal can be replaced and new desiccant can be added.
An often air-gap (rather than being filled with noble-gas) double-glazed window loss is the loss of air moving between the glass sheets. Other gases can reduce vascular losses due to greater mass, leading to slower diffusion. However, I think most of the old windows have been lost for a long time. Anything that has lost the filling of special gas can happen once. Air filled windows have the advantage that a normal person can replace the glass and become desolate without any special equipment.
Window sash is a trick of this design. It acts as a spacer between the sheets of glass; This provides a space for o-rings that seal the glass to the frame; This provides a place to attach the trim, which holds the glass in place; And it provides a structure that supports glass.
The air gap is created using sash wood. I used a 1/2-inch gap. Note that the thermal performance of this window sash is improved by not using a metal spacer between the layers of glass.
I designed my frame to accommodate 1/8 "glass and 3/8" trim. The O-ring groove is 1/8 ", which is a poor choice because there were no O-rings available with the appropriate diameter. You should find the O-ring and let's determine the width of the groove. The O-ring is a cross-sectional area. Must be selected on a basis. That area must match the cross-sectional area of the drain. I was surprised how much some of these materials cost. Cost. Weather- Resistant something Nden. So UV radiation does not destroy it immediately. For my prototype, I would be very difficult to remove the used silicon , which was cheaper but glass. Do not use it !!
The wood I used for this display is pine from framing-grade 2 "x4" wood. When I do this for a large project, I will use something much better. I have read a lot about windows and there has not been a consensus as to what wood is best for windows. I use white oak, but any hard or soft wood can be found in commercial use, so I guess it doesn't matter much.
When you are cutting this profile, make sure you produce enough for your project. Measure the outer perimeter of the windows and add 10% to the total for all windows. If you are making a frame for a very large window, or if your stock is small pieces, then you have to be more careful about the exact amount of stock. Also, for windows larger than 3'x3 ', you want to build something much stronger than the design presented here. Just an idea, Mr. Fox.
One of you would like a drawing of a cross section --- I know right now. I have decided not to provide a technical drawing because the point of this article is to demonstrate a concept; This is not an engineering consultancy. You will know the difference because the concepts are independent. Comes with other fees --- and usually 10% up front.
Collect sash. This design requires that you combine with some acrimony instead of corners. (Some joints are, in fact, stronger than others. But the point here is to remove something, not argue with the ambiguity of joining together.) Constant grooves for the O-ring to make a good seal Necessary. You can probably run with another joint, but you will need to whistle a few to get a continuous drain.
Use wooden screws (thick threads, flat heads) to hold the frame together. These are counter bore because I had pan-head screws. If you have flat-head screws, a counter sinking hole will be zero. Leave the corners slightly loose until the glass is inside. The frame does not have a lot of strength, and being rigid will make it difficult to pour glass into it. The glass will likely have 2 factory sides, which should keep the entire works square.
Cutting glass is also not difficult. There are some important things to remember. First of all, you should take general precautions --- wear gloves and try not to let anything come to your eye. Then, you need a work surface that is flat, clean and really strong. Before starting, use a dab of light oil on the glass cutter. Third, use a straight edge and figure out how to clamp it to the ends of the cut. Cut as smooth as possible, using a motion. You have to press hard --- there is a sound that tells you when you are doing everything right. Then hold the glass at the end and rotate it with the cut.
For the design of this window, you have to measure accurately to within 1/16 "or so. It sounds hard, but it's well within the capacity of normal people. I know, because I can too .
After cutting the glass, polish the raw edges before doing anything. You can use a file or 400-grit sand paper to remove the sharp edge. The file will make small glass chips, so do not place this part on the carpet. The sand paper creates little dust, but is less messy than the file as a whole.
Dry the glass in sash. Then, take it out, add seals (use the O-ring, notched), insert the glass back in and add trim. Then, paint it with exterior paint, add hardware, and call it.
When you add the trim, tighten it gently. Start with the screws near the middle of the trim strip and work your way out. This avoids putting too much pressure on the corners of the window, which are quite fragile. Perhaps there is some way to relate torque to the kilometer of the seal, but you can just tighten it based on your intuition. If you have too much moisture, replace the desiccant and tighten the trim a little more.
The entire point of the project should have a window that can be fixed, if necessary. But usually the fixing needs to be disassembled and this can be a problem if the screws are painted. Also, most people would not like to see the screws on the trim. Therefore, try to think of a way to cover the screw heads that allow maintenance and look good. And you have to do this so that the next homeowner knows that there is a way to maintain the windows. I have not yet hit upon the correct solution.
The desiccant should probably be placed between the sheets of glass. You can add a hole to the top of the sash for this, and seal it with a large screw or conical dowel. You can buy desiccant at McMaster-Carr. If you have an air compressor, you can also use dry air to fill the window. I assume that some of the moisture will come from the wood, so it may be appropriate to photograph the bits of wood before and after assembly.
After a year, the window painted here has worked without fogging. Granted, it was not in my kitchen or bathroom where moisture problems usually crop up. The window is in my tuck-under garage, so the temperature may be lower than the extremes. But it was the only part of my house where I was able to escape the oversight of the sentencing committee, so it was a good place to experiment. I broke a pan of glass and was able to replace it. He said is a real hassle. I think the idea of O-ring would work much better. And if you are making your own windows, you are saving so much on this project that it should be worthwhile to buy O-ring material.
If you use standard-drive screws (Phillips, squares, hexes, etc.), you can usually paint out of the grooves.
A decorative knob can be used to cover the screw holes. Unlike the flush plug, the next person working on your windows will have a clue as to how to disassemble the window.
Perhaps the outer pane should be held in place by marks and glazing. This is the traditional method and it can be tight. Perhaps a small bead around the glass, once it is installed, will provide a seal. Weather resistance will be provided by the window putty, which can be applied after the calc has dried.
Sometimes it can be really difficult to close a new window putty. I think it is easier to work with traditional putty.
If you use putty, wherever putty touches with boiled linseed oil, seal it with wood and leave it un-primed. Paint on the glazing a few days later, overlapping the glass 1/16 inch or so (several millimeters).
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