Make a Miintainable diy double glazes window
Double-glazed windows are usually made of pre-fabricated
glass panels. Although it is a good design to reduce the cost and complexity of
construction, there are drawbacks. For example, if a double-glazed window is
broken, replacing it can be very difficult and costly due to custom sizes,
discontinued models, and companies going out of business. Most double-glazed
windows are only expected for the last 10 years in moderate climates, and where
the temperature is at extremes due to the weather, which is reason enough to be
able to maintain a window.
The design shown below is a true DIY double-glazed window.
It can be created and maintained by a person of minor skill; And at the least
cost. If someone breaks the glass, it can be replaced with a readily available
glass sheet from a home-supply store. If it starts collecting moisture, the
seal can be replaced and new desiccant can be added.
An often air-gap (rather than being filled with noble-gas)
double-glazed window loss is the loss of air moving between the glass sheets.
Other gases can reduce vascular losses due to greater mass, leading to slower
diffusion. However, I think most of the old windows have been lost for a long
time. Anything that has lost the filling of special gas can happen once. Air
filled windows have the advantage that a normal person can replace the glass
and become desolate without any special equipment.
Frame Making
Window sash is a trick of this design. It acts as a spacer
between the sheets of glass; This provides a space for o-rings that seal the
glass to the frame; This provides a place to attach the trim, which holds the
glass in place; And it provides a structure that supports glass.
The air gap is created using sash wood. I used a 1/2-inch
gap. Note that the thermal performance of this window sash is improved by not
using a metal spacer between the layers of glass.
I designed my frame to accommodate 1/8 "glass and
3/8" trim. The O-ring groove is 1/8 ", which is a poor choice because
there were no O-rings available with the appropriate diameter. You should find
the O-ring and let's determine the width of the groove. The O-ring is a
cross-sectional area. Must be selected on a basis. That area must match the
cross-sectional area of the drain. I was surprised how much some of these materials
cost. Cost. Weather- Resistant something Nden. So UV radiation does not destroy
it immediately. For my prototype, I would be very difficult to remove the used
silicon , which was cheaper but glass. Do not use it !!
The wood I used for this display is pine from framing-grade
2 "x4" wood. When I do this for a large project, I will use something
much better. I have read a lot about windows and there has not been a consensus
as to what wood is best for windows. I use white oak, but any hard or soft wood
can be found in commercial use, so I guess it doesn't matter much.
When you are cutting this profile, make sure you produce
enough for your project. Measure the outer perimeter of the windows and add 10%
to the total for all windows. If you are making a frame for a very large
window, or if your stock is small pieces, then you have to be more careful
about the exact amount of stock. Also, for windows larger than 3'x3 ', you want
to build something much stronger than the design presented here. Just an idea,
Mr. Fox.
One of you would like a drawing of a cross section --- I
know right now. I have decided not to provide a technical drawing because the
point of this article is to demonstrate a concept; This is not an engineering
consultancy. You will know the difference because the concepts are independent.
Comes with other fees --- and usually 10% up front.
Assemble Frame
Collect sash. This design requires that you combine with
some acrimony instead of corners. (Some joints are, in fact, stronger than
others. But the point here is to remove something, not argue with the ambiguity
of joining together.) Constant grooves for the O-ring to make a good seal
Necessary. You can probably run with another joint, but you will need to
whistle a few to get a continuous drain.
Use wooden screws (thick threads, flat heads) to hold the
frame together. These are counter bore because I had pan-head screws. If you
have flat-head screws, a counter sinking hole will be zero. Leave the corners
slightly loose until the glass is inside. The frame does not have a lot of
strength, and being rigid will make it difficult to pour glass into it. The
glass will likely have 2 factory sides, which should keep the entire works
square.
Cut Glass
Cutting glass is also not difficult. There are some
important things to remember. First of all, you should take general precautions
--- wear gloves and try not to let anything come to your eye. Then, you need a
work surface that is flat, clean and really strong. Before starting, use a dab
of light oil on the glass cutter. Third, use a straight edge and figure out how
to clamp it to the ends of the cut. Cut as smooth as possible, using a motion.
You have to press hard --- there is a sound that tells you when you are doing
everything right. Then hold the glass at the end and rotate it with the cut.
For the design of this window, you have to measure
accurately to within 1/16 "or so. It sounds hard, but it's well within the
capacity of normal people. I know, because I can too .
for example,
After cutting the glass, polish the raw edges before doing
anything. You can use a file or 400-grit sand paper to remove the sharp edge.
The file will make small glass chips, so do not place this part on the carpet.
The sand paper creates little dust, but is less messy than the file as a whole.
Assemble Window
Dry the glass in sash. Then, take it out, add seals (use the
O-ring, notched), insert the glass back in and add trim. Then, paint it with
exterior paint, add hardware, and call it.
When you add the trim, tighten it gently. Start with the
screws near the middle of the trim strip and work your way out. This avoids
putting too much pressure on the corners of the window, which are quite
fragile. Perhaps there is some way to relate torque to the kilometer of the
seal, but you can just tighten it based on your intuition. If you have too much
moisture, replace the desiccant and tighten the trim a little more.
The entire point of the project should have a window that
can be fixed, if necessary. But usually the fixing needs to be disassembled and
this can be a problem if the screws are painted. Also, most people would not
like to see the screws on the trim. Therefore, try to think of a way to cover
the screw heads that allow maintenance and look good. And you have to do this
so that the next homeowner knows that there is a way to maintain the windows. I
have not yet hit upon the correct solution.
The desiccant should probably be placed between the sheets
of glass. You can add a hole to the top of the sash for this, and seal it with
a large screw or conical dowel. You can buy desiccant at McMaster-Carr. If you
have an air compressor, you can also use dry air to fill the window. I assume
that some of the moisture will come from the wood, so it may be appropriate to
photograph the bits of wood before and after assembly.
After a year, the window painted here has worked without
fogging. Granted, it was not in my kitchen or bathroom where moisture problems
usually crop up. The window is in my tuck-under garage, so the temperature may
be lower than the extremes. But it was the only part of my house where I was
able to escape the oversight of the sentencing committee, so it was a good
place to experiment. I broke a pan of glass and was able to replace it. He said
is a real hassle. I think the idea of O-ring would work much better. And if
you are making your own windows, you are saving so much on this project that it
should be worthwhile to buy O-ring material.
Addendum
Inside trim:
If you use standard-drive screws (Phillips, squares, hexes,
etc.), you can usually paint out of the grooves.
A decorative knob can be used to cover the screw holes.
Unlike the flush plug, the next person working on your windows will have a clue
as to how to disassemble the window.
Weather-tight seal:
Perhaps the outer pane should be held in place by marks and
glazing. This is the traditional method and it can be tight. Perhaps a small
bead around the glass, once it is installed, will provide a seal. Weather
resistance will be provided by the window putty, which can be applied after the
calc has dried.
Sometimes it can be really difficult to close a new window
putty. I think it is easier to work with traditional putty.
If you use putty, wherever putty touches with boiled linseed
oil, seal it with wood and leave it un-primed. Paint on the glazing a few days
later, overlapping the glass 1/16 inch or so (several millimeters).
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